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Por Arthur Stabile, Gabriel Croquer, crash blaze

06/12/2023 00h01 Atualizado 06/12/2023

Veja como � a praia em que Chumbinho?? se acidentou �
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O surfista Jo�o Chianca, o Chumbinho, levou um tombo de uma onda que tinha entre?? 2,4 e 3,6 metros de altura numa regi�o de mar repleta de corais, no domingo (3).

Segundo o ge, testemunhas que?? estavam no local disseram que Jo�o j� havia levado v�rias pancadas na cabe�a antes da queda. Ele foi socorrido por?? amigos e pelo irm�o e segue hospitalizado em condi��o est�vel.

N�mero 4 do mundo e brasileiro classificado para competir nas Olimp�adas?? de Paris 2024, Chumbinho sofreu o acidente na praia de Pipeline, na ilha de Honolulu, no Hava�.

A praia � uma?? das mais famosas do mundo por conta das ondas tubulares que se formam em raz�o das extensas forma��es de corais?? existentes na regi�o. Isso, por�m, torna quedas ainda mais perigosas.

"A onda era t�o pesada que ele deve ter furado e?? batido de cabe�a no coral", contou o tamb�m surfista Guilherme T�mega, que atua como salva-vidas na praia, logo ap�s o?? acidente.

Veja, abaixo, mais detalhes da praia e do acidente

Chumbinho ficou 3 minutos embaixo d'�gua antes de ser socorrido

Onde fica a?? praia e por que ela � famosa?

A praia de Pipeline fica na ilha de Honolulu, no Hava�. Ela � famosa?? pelas forma��es perfeitas de ondas tubulares e r�pidas. Por isso, � palco dos melhores surfistas do mundo e � uma?? etapa muito esperada do circuito mundial de surfe da WSL (Liga Mundial do Surfe, traduzido do ingl�s).

Qual era a altura?? da onda?

A partir das imagens, o f�sico e professor do Col�gio Etapa Bruno Albuquerque explica que � poss�vel estimar que?? a onda tenha em torno de 3 metros � considerando que o surfista tem 1,81m.

Segundo a revista local "stabmag", a?? altura m�dia das ondas no dia do acidente (domingo, dia 3 de dezembro) foi de 8 a 12 p�s (entre?? 2,4 e 3,6 metros), mesma estimativa feita pelo surfista Edinho Leite, do canal no YouTube "S�rie ao Fundo" e conhecedor?? de Pipeline.

"A dire��o do swell (eleva��o da �gua para formar a onda), intensidade, estava fechando muito", contou Edinho ao crash blaze.?? "Pipeline, o cl�ssico quebra de 8 a 12 p�s".

� poss�vel estimar o peso de �gua que caiu sobre o surfista?

Com?? base na estimativa da altura da onda, Albuquerque estima que o impacto causado foi de 2,5 vezes o peso do?? surfista. Se a pessoa pesa 80 kg, por exemplo, o choque seria de 200 kg. Se o peso � de?? 60 kg, o impacto giraria em torno de 150 kg.

"A for�a feita pela �gua sobre o atleta n�o � constante?? e se comporta de forma bem complicada � medida que o tempo transcorre", explica o professor.

"A gravidade do quadro do?? atleta se deve, provavelmente, a uma conjun��o de outros fatores, tais como a forma de quebra da onda sobre o?? atleta, os movimentos bruscos executados pelo seu corpo sob influ�ncia das �guas turbulentas, � colis�o com eventuais recifes de corais?? presentes no local, ao tempo decorrido entre o acidente e o resgate (de 3 a 5 minutos) etc."

Como � o?? fundo do mar em Pipeline?

Em grande parte, o solo do mar em Pipeline � formado por arrecifes de corais. S�o?? essas estruturas, formadas por diversos seres-vivos e rochas, que possibilitam a forma��o das ondas tubulares e r�pidas da praia, um?? �cone do surfe e palco dos melhores surfistas do mundo.

Os arrecifes da praia est�o na �rea de arrebenta��o das ondas?? e, por isso, surfistas que caem logo na forma��o da ondula��o est�o mais sujeitos ao se machucarem, por ca�rem diretamente?? na estrutura dos arrecifes.

Mais para a �rea rasa da praia, os arrecifes cedem e o fundo do mar � feito?? de areia (veja na ilustra��o acima).

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